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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate renowned high-end venues. But, situated near the top among these food giants is a modest salonu found in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Shocking Recognition

This little Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the proprietors totally astonished.

“I am completely astonished,” says a family member, alluding to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their small place earning such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its former charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the food, and this eatery certainly excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender texture.

It is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. As the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can cost many times that amount.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not train at fancy establishments. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo beyond its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this gastronomic triumph.